Why You Shouldn’t Skip Sunscreen! – Zukiswa Khoza
Sunscreen is the most important step in your daily skincare routine. I always tell clients everything we work with in the salon and the products they use at home will not give them the optimal results if they are skipping this essential step, especially considering the climate we live under!
Applying sunscreen is non-negotiable irrespective of the weather forecast or your skin tone. UV (ultraviolet) rays are present even during those cloudy days, which is why it’s recommended you apply your SPF even during those grey days as well. Contrary to popular belief, black and other people of colour do need to apply sunscreen as much as those of a fairer complexion. Though the risk of skin cancer is much lower in African skin compared to white skin, black skin is still equally vulnerable to the other side effects of the sun’s harsh rays.
What UVA & UVB?
Broad spectrum is what one should be looking out for when making the purchase of a sunscreen. Broad spectrum protection means protection from the two forms of Ultraviolet light that can affect the skin after exposure – UVA and UVB.
UVA has a longer wave that penetrates into the thickest layer of your skin, the dermis layer. This is what’s also referred to as the “living layer of your skin as it contains the blood vessels, collagen, fibroblasts, elastin and other cells which maintain the integrity and youthfulness of the skin. Damage to these cells results in
- Wrinkles
- Sagging skin
- Break down of collagen
- Dry skin
UVB rays have a shorter wave and are responsible for sunburn, which is the burning of the top layer of the skin. This leads to:
- Premature ageing
- Hyperpigmentation
- DNA damage causing premature ageing can all be a result of UVB exposure.
Whilst melanin does protect against some UV rays, it doesn’t protect us against all. Sun burn does happen to us and our melanin is usually the reason why skin cancer is detected at a late and possibly fatal stage.
How To Choose A Sunscreen
The golden rule when choosing a sunscreen is selecting anything between SPF 30 and 50, what do these numbers mean? The PA rating is a system ranking sunscreens based on the amount of protection they can provide from UVA rays. It basically indicates the amount of time you can stay under direct exposure to the sun without getting UV damage, e.g. SPF 15 = 150 minutes burning. It’s recommended that you reapply your sunscreen throughout the day, especially when directly exposed to the sun’s rays. Factor 30 will block out about 97% of UV rays whereas SPF 50 will block out about 98% and give you a bit more time before experiencing sun burn.
No More Ashy Melanin
Sunscreens have gotten a bad rap for leaving a white, pasty film on the skin but with modern technologies, newer formulations have created more brown skin friendly sunscreens which blend in with all skin tones. Looking grey and ashy is no longer an excuse to not layer up. Physical sunscreens were responsible for that white residue as they contain titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. New physical formulations have been micronized by grinding larger particles sizes into smaller sizes that don’t leave white residues on the skin making it more aesthetically acceptable. Physical sunscreens protect the skin by sitting on top and reflecting the UV rays off the surface of the skin. This is where the term sunblock originated from however sunscreen and sunblock is pretty much one and the same thing. Physical sunscreens are ideal for sensitive and reactive skin so they’re a great pick if you are prone to irritation. Chemical sunscreens protect the skin by absorbing UV rays and generally have a more translucent finish. The absorption of UV can increase heat in the skin which may cause irritation on rosacea skin. There’s also combination sunscreens which have both physical and chemical properties.
Preventing Hyperpigmentation
Photosensitivity is caused by products and treatments which make the skin more vulnerable to UV damage. These include chemical peels, lasers, Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA), Beta Hydroxys Acids (BHA) as well as retinol. All these are very safe and effective in treating various indications however sunscreen usage is imperative to make sure that you get the best and safest results from these super ingredients. Post inflammatory pigmentation and scarring can occur in the case of photosensitivity without SPF protection. Black and brown skins are more at risk of hyperpigmentation especially when the skin is exposed to trauma and UV rays.
Sunscreen helps protect against UVA and UVB rays but it may not protect the body completely which, is why we do not recommended laying under the sun. It is possible to get a tan while using sunscreen even when ensuring to reapply sunscreen throughout the day. A tan is the body’s natural protective response to UV – evidence that there’s been skin damage due to excessive melanocyte (your pigment producing cells, responsible for your complexion) activity as a result of UV exposure.
Sunscreen For Every Skin Type
There’s a sunscreen for all skin types, oil free and matte finish textures for your oily and acne prone skin and cream-based SPF’s for dry skin as well as lotion like products for your combination skin. SPF in make up does not give you adequate protection as you do not apply enough of a cosmetic product to get the full SPF factor of the product. Layering up SPF also does not work, factor 15 in your foundation plus and factor 15 in your moisturizer does not give you SPF 30. It is also recommended that you use a stand-alone sunscreen vs a 2 in 1 product because the efficacy of SPF factor or moisturizing properties are lost when trying to combine these two products. You’ll always get the most of a product when it has a single function.
Sunscreen should be part of your daily routine, whether going about your day or enjoying the outdoors under direct exposure. There’s a product for every skin type and lifestyle. It is also important to note the sunscreen or sunblock do not prevent skin tanning or burning, exposure to the sun will brown melanated skin even more, but melanin is for Africa, the place of the Sun, melanated skin tolerates the effects of the sun better.
Understanding Melanin In Skin – Love Your Brown Skin
By Zukiswa Khoza.
Your skin is the largest organs on your body, it serves as the first line of defence against extrinsic factors such as toxins, bacteria and viruses. It also prevents water loss, regulates our temperature and gives us our sense of touch. Skin also reflects overall health as disruption to ones health may manifest on the skin as irritation and disease. This precious organ also gives us our skin tone, melanin (pigment) is produced by melanocytes and the density and distribution of the melanin will determine your skin tone.
Melanin Is For Protection
Black or brown skin has a denser distribution of melanin. The indigenous people of areas that have very hot climates generally have brown to black skin tones e.g. Africa, South Asia, Australia. One of the evolutionary reasons of our skin tone was to protect us against the harsh climates in these areas.
Dark skins have a slightly higher protection against ultraviolet damage but we are not completely protected. Ultraviolet damage is responsible for DNA damage of the skin, decrease in collagen and elastin which causes ageing, age spots as well as cancer. All these indications do occur in brown people but may take longer to manifest hence the term “Black don’t crack”.
Melanin And Sunscreen
With lack of maintenance and protection, our beautiful melanated skin can also succumb to the indications mentioned above. This is why it is important to avoid exposure to the sun for extended periods at a time and making use of sunscreen is very important. Newer formulations of sunscreen are less greasy and ashy making then suitable for brown people. Sunscreen should be applied daily, even on grey days. Reapplication is imperative when you’re exposed directly for long periods of time e.g.on the beach. Black skin friendly sunscreens can be found in ranges such as Dermafix, Lamelle, Eucerin. These brands cater for different skin types as well which is a major plus.
Hyperpigmentation, Laser Treatments & Chemical Peels
Hyperpigmentation is a common concern for people of colour. This may be caused by hormonal fluctuations (melasma), post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) from acne or injury. Friction on area’s such as knees, elbows and inner thighs are causes of darkening in these areas. This is all completely normal. In previous years, the cosmetic world was not as inclusive to brown or more melanated skins. Treatments such as laser hair removal and chemical peels were a no go zone as they were too dangerous and risky for brown people. When brown skin is exposed to inflammation or heat, one of its inflammatory responses includes producing more melanin at the site of the injury which would result in hyperpigmentation or discoloration of the skin. Over time, newer technologies of lasers as well as better formulations of topical treatments have become safe for melanated skin.
Skin Lightening
Maintaining a healthy skin is prevention of damage caused by ultraviolet damage and using topical creams to treat hyperpigmentation. Be wary of any creams that promise skin lightening. Skin lightening is an unfortunate product of colourism and the sale of products promising skin lightening is illegal in the country – products are prohibited from making lightening, whitening and bleaching claims. Above the psychological effects of skin lightening, the physical damage to the skin can have devastating results. Skin lightening creams that are found off the black market usually contain ingredients such as mercury, steroids and hydroquinone which have very severe side effects on the skin. These include thinning of the skin (making it vulnerable to injury and scarring, redness, swelling, skin ulcers, exogenous orchranosis which is a condition linked to long term use of toxic bleaching creams which results in blue black patches on the affected areas. This condition is almost impossible to treat. Steroid acne is another side effect from creams containing steroids. Mercury may cause damage to your nervous system as well as kidney disease in serve cases. Skin lightening is extremely dangerous hence the prohibition of such products. The are no health benefits in lightening your skin. The sale of skin lightening creams is generally rife in unregulated environments as the demand is high, making black woman vulnerable to these dangerous creams
A popular skin lightening treatment that has gained popularity due to use by celebrities is Glutathione. Glutathione is an antioxidant found in the human body, but like most antioxidants, it does not occur in large amounts in the body. It works deactivating the enzyme tyrosinase, which helps produce melanin. There are no clinical trials yet to test the long term use of glutathione.
Love Your Brown Skin
Your skin is beautiful irrespective of the shade of your skin. When treating it, your objective should always to have a healthy glowing skin which is possible to achieve regardless of your skin tone. There’s a wide variety of treatments which is inclusive to black skin . Make sure you protect your beautiful melanin with the daily use of sunscreen, treat conditions such as acne and hyperpigmentation with the guidance of a professional for the safest and best results. All skin has pores, some area’s which are darker than others due to hormonal fluctuations and friction (such as underarm and bikini area’s). This is all okay, it’s the characteristics of black skin, it does not disrupt your skin’s health or take anything away from your hygiene.
Love your brown skin.
- Published in beauty, Beauty, Health & Beauty, Skin, Studies
Beauty 101: Know Thy Facial Skin Type
Determining your skin type is the foundation of skin health for the long term. Skin is the biggest organ and needs special care in terms of products we use and what we eat. Once you have established your skin type, you can select the correct products and treatments. Incorrect products and treatments can aggravate existing conditions or cause irritation and sensitivity. When you have melanated skin, skin with melanin, you want to avoid causing irritations because melanin skin scars quickly and for longer. There are four skin types – normal, oily,dry and combination skin.
Normal Skin
The normal skin type is one that isn’t common – especially amongst adults. The best way to describe it is a healthy and hydrated skin type.
- The pores are refined, almost invisible to the naked eye which means sebum (oil produced by oil glands in the skin) isn’t over active.
- With the sebum production under control, blemishes such as acne, black heads and whiteheads are generally not a concern.
- This type tends to appear radiant and youthful.
It is important to maintain your skin with some key skincare products even if imperfections are minimal. Moisturizers to maintain hydration, sunscreen to protect against ultraviolet damage as well as exfoliators and cleansers to remove debris and main the natural cell turnover.
Oily Skin
Oily skin is due to over active sebum production which leaves skin oily and greasy throughout the day.
- This skin type will have visibly enlarged pores which not only produce the sebum but are also responsible for congestion.
- Black heads and whiteheads clog the pores and acne is a common concern for this skin type.
- Active acne can cause other conditions such as acne scarring, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (due the inflammation from the acne).
Suggested Remedy:
- Using a cleanser that deeply cleanses without stripping the skin’s barrier is essential.
- Look out for ingredients such as salicylic acid which, is oil soluble and helps to decongest oily congested skin and benzoyl peroxide which, has anti-bacterial properties which will help reduce acne causing bacteria.
Causes:
Oily skin may be genetic, caused by hormones due to puberty or pregnancy.
Moisturizing skin is important as the oil does not hydrate the skin. Your skin needs both water and oil, sebum does not account for that hydration. Skipping a moisturizer on an only skin may actually cause an overproduction of sebum as your skin tries to compensate for the lack of hydration.
Lightweight moisturizers with ingredients such as hyaluronic acid are available for oily skin.
Dry Skin
Dry skin has no oil production and appears dull and “tired”. The pores of this skin are barely visible and the dull appearance may be caused by the layer of dead skin sitting on the surface of the skin.
Causes:
- Dry skin may be caused by genetics, environmental factors such as ultraviolet exposure, pollutants and wind as well as ageing – oil/lipid production may diminish with age.
- Incorrect use of skincare products such as exfoliators may also cause dryness.
- Dry skin can be managed by using humectants such as hyaluronic acid, glycerine, lipids and ceramides. These could all come in a heavier cream consistency or serum.
- Keeping the skin nourished and hydrated should always be the aim when you have dry skin to prevent sensitivities such as redness, rashes, flaking, peeling and contact dermatitis.
Combination Skin
A combination skin type is one we see very often in the salon space. This skin type presents itself with characters of two skin types eg. Oily t-zone and normal or dry u-zone.
- Environmental factors may also affect this skin type, you may fine that your oily t-zone is less shiny in winter and your u zone goes from normal to dry.
- Hydration is still essential with this skin type irrespective of the composition.
- Target treatment may also be necessary e.g. you may need to apply a salicylic acid based serum on the oily t-zone to manage the oil production and congestion which you wouldn’t use on your dry u-zone.
A successful skin care routine and treatment journey can only happen once skin type is established. Irrespective of your skin type, don’t forget to keep hydrated and protected with SPF!
Body Dysmorphic Disorder? We might have all had it at some point
Have you seen a picture of your body from two years ago and thought “wow, my body was so fit and amazing”, however, at that time you didn’t think so and would found fault in all areas. That is Body Dysmorphic Disorder (BDD)! Or when you look in the mirror and see a skinny girl with sadness when in fact, your body is thick and healthy. That is Body Dysmorphic Disorder! BDD is a mental health condition where a person worries about their appearance and flaws. These flaws are usually not noticeable to others.
I’m sure you are wondering, what if I’m just insecure? And yes, that’s a valid question. There can be confusion between BDD and low self-esteem. BDD is characterized by being overly preoccupied with your flaws. It’s more extensive because the individual can be affected to the point of inability to function normally. it will have an impact on their emotional, social educational, or occupational welfare. Their behaviours will develop into obsessive actions such as checking their appearance 100 times throughout the day.
So how do you spot it? The symptoms of BDD are constantly worrying about certain areas of your body, comparing yourself to other people, avoiding mirrors or always looking into the mirror, finding ways to conceal your flaws e.g. baggy clothing, apply too much makeup, hairstyles which hide your face and self-harm. This disorder can lead to further mental health issues such as depression, anxiety, and obsessive-compulsive disorder. BDD isn’t considered an eating disorder, however, it can trigger anorexia nervosa, bulimia, or binge eating as it has to do with appearance. One might feel the need to eat more or less depending on what they are struggling with.
Vast studies have been conducted to get to the root of BDD, the causes are not specifically known. However, they can be associated with:
• Traumatic life experiences such as teasing, bullying, and abuse. These experiences could have taken place at any point.
• Genetics – having relatives with a history of BDD or obsessive-compulsive disorder.
• A chemical imbalance in the brain (usually associated with anxiety or depression).
• Unrealistic societal pressures or expectations of beauty standards.
Body Dysmorphic Disorder can be life-changing. It can steal joy and prevent one from living their best life. A person needs to have confidence in their self to feel good and overcome fears. Therefore, treatment is a must and seeking help get one to a place of good health. It is recommended that you visit a GP and from there you will be transferred to the appropriate specialist.
These are some of the different treatments that may be given to someone diagnosed with BDD:
1. Cognitive Behavioural Therapy (CBT)
At the beginning of therapy, you will discuss goals and what you’d like to achieve from the session. CBT will help you change your mindset. Therefore, change how you think and behave. The therapist will help you identify triggers. You will then be given strategies on how to deal with the trigger and habits. It won’t be easy as it entails exposing emotions and feelings you might not want to confront. If you are a minor family therapy can be included, so that parents are well aware of the root of the problem.
2. Selective serotonin reuptake inhibitors (SSRIs)
SSRI’s are a type of antidepressant. Antidepressants are effective if used correctly. One must be monitored when on them. It takes about 12 weeks to the medication to have an impact on your symptoms. You will take to take them for months before coming off. Nevertheless, coming off SSRIs has to be done slowly by the reduction of the dose. This is done to prevent withdrawal symptoms as it can be a side effect of stopping abruptly.
Body Dysmorphic Disorder is actually quite common, many celebrities experience it. Kim Kardashian as admitted to BDD and has had numerous surgeries to ‘fix’ what she didn’t like. Michael Jackson is one of the biggest celebrities in recent history to suffer from BDD going to extreme measure to change the colour of his skin from black to white. And in South Africa we have seen an increasing trend of celebrities like Khanyi Mbau also bleaching their skin, this is also BDD.
Having a disorder such as Body Dysmorphic Disorder can take away from you. We all deserve to live full lives centered on fulfilling our purpose. We all deserve to be happy and comfortable in our skin because at the end of the day, the body we have is ours to keep forever. If you are dealing with this disorder, we want you to know that you are worthy, valued, loved, and appreciated.
- Published in About, beauty, Beauty, Bossing Up, GIRL TALK, Girl Talk, health, Uncategorized
Your Relaxed Hair Regimen – Girl Boss Products
Lately, the market has been flooded with natural hair care products, and it almost seems as if brands have been paying no mind to us girls who still prefer to wear our hair straight and relaxed. It’s all based on preference right? What works for me might not work for others and having relaxed hair seems to work for many of us. It can feel a bit exclusive that relaxed hair girls do not receive as much attention as they use to before the natural hair hype. There are many reasons to continue to wear our hair out the way we feel. Relaxed hair does not deem our hair as unhealthy, it is a choice to apply chemical products to our hair, it’s easy to manage relaxed hair, our hair still grows and there are several creative ways to enjoy and style relaxed hair.
Girl Boss SA is all much aware of the hype that surrounds natural hair these days, and our focus is not to produce only products that are fit for natural haired women only but to be as exclusive as we possibly can and consider all women and how they perceive their beauty. We are all about inclusivity, no skin in better than the other, the same way not hair type is considered the better strand, and no choice is superior to the other. That is why we have carefully formulated a relaxed hair range with all the goodness ad nutrition that all hair needs, especially hair that has been chemically treated. The same amount of care and thought has been used to formulate all of our products so that you can feel your best in your skin and hair.
Our Relaxed Hair Range consists of 6 Products and we are here to help use the products to achieve healthy, strong, and growing hair. They are:
• The Growth Hair Food
• The Strengthening Hair Mask
• The Daily Oil Lotion
• The Conditioning Shampoo
• The Hair Gel
• The Strengthening Braid Spray
As you have noticed, our aim in these products is to restore that the natural strength of our hair which may have been stripped while chemically processing our hair. These products are filled with protein that can repair any damage that may have occurred.
Conditioning Shampoo
Our hair is prone to dryness and brittleness when it undergoes chemical treatment. The conditioning shampoo begins the moisturizing process so that moisture is restored and our hair looks healthy with a shine of liveliness.
Daily Oil Lotion
It is a nutritious blend of oils that ensures that our hair receives its daily dose of all the nutritional goodness so that it looks and feels great throughout the day. This lotion keeps our hair hydrated and protects it from the sun and harsh weather conditions.
Growth Hair Food
The main focus of this product is to promote hair growth, as it is food for the scalp. When the scalp is well taken care of, your hair is likely to grow in those favorable conditions. If your scalp is happy and healthy then your hair will blossom with growth and have a natural shine.
Strengthening Hair Mask
Every good head of hair needs a strengthening hair mask at least once every month to repair any damages and losses that may have occurred. The mask is a boost that provides loads of protein and all the nutrition that our hair needs to maintain healthy growing hair.
Strengthening Braid Spray
When our hair is under protective styling it still requires the same amount of love and care. We may tuck our hair away because we do get tired of managing it, also because protective styles promote growth. This spray makes sure that our hair still receives the same amount of care as it would if it were out. It keeps our hair hydrated and moisturized to minimize breakage.
Hair Gel
This product is a girl’s best friend when it comes to styling and obtaining that sleek look. This fun product with a mild hold still provides your hair with natural nutrients while holding your hair down. The medium hold makes sure that our hair can still breathe even with this product applied.
Regimen:
- Apply a generous amount of the Conditioning Shampoo on hair and wash gently.
- Follow with the Strengthening Hair Mask. Apply a generous amount that covers all of your hair. Wear a plastic head cover, and sit in a hooded dryer or exposed sunlight for 20 to 30 minutes. Then rinse.
- Apply a medium amount of the Oil Lotion and blow-dry your hair under medium heat.
- Apply the Growth Hair Food on the entire scalp and blow-dry again under low to medium heat.
- Style your hair using the Hair Gel or protective styling (Spray some Braid Spray over new protective style and do so daily).
And voila! Your relaxed hair is back to its strong and healthy self. This regimen is perfect for stimulating hair growth and a healthy scalp with a lustrous shine!
- Published in About, beauty, Beauty, GIRL TALK, Hair, Hair, health, Health & Beauty, Uncategorized
